Cult Burgundy from Sylvaine Pataille
“Consulting enologist Sylvain Pataille owns this 15-hectare Marsannay domaine, where he produces brilliant wines that number among the Côte d’Or’s finest values.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate.
I was particularly pleased to be able to explore the 2020s in depth with this extraordinary oenologist turned vigneron. There is no assumption in viticulture or vinification that he does not challenge, but there is no sense that he is being contrary for its own sake. The result? Some stupendous wines, mostly from terroirs and sometimes grapes as well, that would scarcely have been on anybody’s radar a few years ago.” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne Blanc 'Les Mechalots' 2020
Pataille works with 0.3 hectares of Chardonnay in the Les Mechalots climat at the bottom of the slope. Pataille established this vineyard in 2010 using high-density, mass-selection plantings, and the vines also include a little Pinot Beurot, which Pataille likes for the complexity it brings to the blend. The deep alluvial soils here (with many small stones) bring texture to offset the tension. Fermentation starts in stainless steel, and the wine is transferred into seven-year-old barrels halfway through to finish its aging. The wine has not been reviewed, but this terroir routinely delivers village-level intensity, complexity and length.
Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rouge 'En Clemengeots' 2020
Pataille's vines in this impressive terroir were planted in 1951, 1989 and 2006. It's a gently sloping, sunny vineyard on the northern border of Couchey with shallow soils rich in red clay and a type of limestone called Ostrea acuminata (after the sickle oyster). The fruit from the oldest vines (about half of the blend) ferments as whole bunches while the younger vine fruit is destemmed. The 2020 was raised for 24 months in mainly used oak and bottled unfiltered. It's a finer, prettier reflection of Marsannay than the more structured Clos de Roy and powerful Les Grasses Tetes.
A more wc perfume to this wine. Hmm, a little gas and extra intensity, the flavour of the stems is more apparent - there's more austerity here too but still in a good/interesting way. Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report.